Loco for coconut oil

Baking. For me, that might be one of the trickiest things about being vegan. Butter is simply hard to substitute. There is a new, not so secret, weapon though and it's called coconut oil. Butter and coconut oil are not completely interchangeable, but for being a natural product (and not a scary processed margarine) coconut oil often gets the job done wonderfully. You have probably noticed the coconut-boom the last couple of years. Not only has coconut oil become so much more available, as has coconut water, coconut flour and anything else coconut. Coconut oil has been called the sustainable alternative to palm oil, which is a villain we all should stay away from, and it is often talked about for it's miraculous effects on your health. But can one product really be that amazing? Can one use coconut oil with a clean conscience? Here is what I've gathered on the subject. 

First, some basic facts about coconut oil. Coconut oil is extracted from the dried "meat" (kernel) of ripe coconuts. The world's largest coconut oil producers are Indonesia, followed by Sri Lanka, as well as Thailand, Brazil, India and the Philippines. Coconut oil is a saturated fat, which means it consist of nice, straight fat chains that can be packed together in an orderly fashion. This is why it is solid at room temperature, assuming it's not a warm summer's day. You can buy both virgin and refined coconut oil. The virgin variety is not as processed and has a stronger coconut flavor, whilst the refined one is extracted from chemically bleached and deodorize coconut.

Coconuts are grown on coconut trees, which is not the same as the average palm tree grown for palm oil. Coconut trees can grow pretty much anywhere, as long as the climate is right, including for example sandier soils and beach areas. This means that coconut oil does not contribute to deforestation in the horrible way that palm oil does. The trees bear fruit for a long time, about 60 years, which of course is good for the farmer. It should be said though, that the trees peak production when they are younger, about 30 years old.

The farming of coconut trees is mainly small-scale; possibly because it is only recently that the demand became so large. But of all the coconut farmers, a large majority live in poverty. Even though coconut oil may be expensive in the stores, the farmers don't see many pennies of this price. The price on the coconuts themselves is low, leading to the average farmer's salary per day to being about one dollar. This leaves the farmers with little excess to invest in production or replace aging trees, not to speak of healthcare or education of their children. These people are amongst the poorest in their countries, and many don't see a future in their trade.

Even in the small scale farming of coconut, the crops are often part of monocultures, meaning an environment where nothing else is grown. This is both risky for the farmer as well as bad for biodiversity. It has been shown that birds disappear from such an environment, which in itself is detrimental. The farming of coconuts is as tricky as any other crop, and requires fertilizers. Although there are organic coconut producers, this is not always the most economical option for the farmer. In Sri Lanka for example, the government subsidizes chemical fertilizers, which leads to many farmers abandoning organic methods to increase their already small profit.

There is however an increasing number of Fair Trade options out there for coconut oil, and this is probably the best thing you can do to aid the poor farmers. Apart from making sure that the farmers get a fair price for their produce, Fair Trade organizations also offer a community development premium. That means that some of the profits from the product are reinvested in the community itself, for example improving sanitary conditions, education, and etcetera.

Before I wrap this up I want to mention some things about the health aspects of coconut oil. As already mentioned, coconut oil is as saturated fat. This is something we often associate with cardiovascular disease, bad cholesterol levels and poor health. But there is a difference between the saturated fat in coconut oil and for example butter. Coconut oil consists of lauric acid, which is a fatty acid of medium length compared to the long fatty acid chains of animal fats. These medium-length chains are believed to be easier for the body to break down but harder to store. That is they're used for fast energy rather than stored as body fat for later. These kinds of fatty acids have been shown to possibly improve the HDL (good cholesterol) levels in the body. There have also been studies conducted showing a positive correlation between coconut oil and weight-loss as well as improvement of Alzheimer’s. Still, many of the studies on coconut oil and its impact on the body have only been conducted over a short period of time, which makes them unreliable. Many scientists still believe that unsaturated, such as olive and canola oil, are better for you. 

So what's the conclusion of all of this? Well to start with, coconut oil should not be confused with palm oil and its contribution to severe deforestation. Coconut trees are generally grown in a more sustainable fashion, often by small-scale farmers. Still it is often grown as a mono-crop, which is always harmful to biodiversity. It is now magical wonder food, or at least that has still to be proven, but it is great for vegan baking. Sometimes, other vegetable oils just won't do, but I would still recommend using for example canola oil when possible, as it is usually not shipped as far. The important thing to remember about coconut oil though is that if you're buying and using it, make sure that it's organic and FAIR TRADE! That way you ensure that the farmer receives his fair earnings and you contribute to making organic coconut farming more sustainable for the farmers.